Garment-pattern



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S. S. START, Jr. & M. A. S. JOHNSON. GARMENT PATTERN.

No. 510,942. Patented Dec. 19, 1893.

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GARMENT PATTERN.

No. 510,942. Patented Dec. 19, 1893.

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(No Model.)

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s. s. START; Jr. & A. s. JOHNSON. GARMENTPATTBRN.

No. 510,942. Patented Dec. 19, 1893.

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(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

s.- s. START, J1". & M. Ajs. JOHNSON. GARMENT PATTERN.

No. 510,942. Patented Dec. 19,1893.

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" UMTED STATES A'rnN'r @rrrcs.

SAMPSON s. START, JR, AND MAY A. START JOHNSON, or LUVERNE, MINNESOTA.

GARMENTQPATTERN.

SIECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 510,942, dated December 19, 1893. Application filed January so, 1892. Serial in. 419,243. (No model.)

invented certain new and useful Improve ments in Garment-Patterns; and we do doclare the followingto he a full, clear, and exact description of the, invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanyingdrawings, and to the figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention relates to improvements in garment-patterns, and has for its object to produce an adjustable pattern of such construction that it may readily be adjusted to the size and shape of any garment or wearlug-apparel, but is especially adapted for the laying out of dresses and garments for ladies and children of all ages or sizes.

The invention consists in garment patterns of the construction hereinafter described and claimed.

The metallic bars in each pattern are joined together by thumbscrews passing through slotted holes in one st rip and are screw-threaded into the other strip, thus forming an adjustable pivot joint that maybe shortened or lengthened as well as swiveled to form different angles or curves, as the, case may be. We may also form those joints .by passing the thumbscrew through a round hole in the solid strip and then let it enter the screw thread of a burr provided with projections that fit and slide in the slot of the adjacent slotted strip, and in most cases we prefer this method because the shoulder of the screw is apt to wear into the slot while a wide nut will not do so. The thumbscrews are so arranged that when screwed up tightly they hold firmly in position the two or more strips through which they pass. Some of the strips are provided with scales and figures marked upon them in such an order that either the ends or the side edge of the strips sliding thereon, either endwise or sidewise, may readily be adjusted to said figures according to the measurements taken of a person either by a tape-line or any other suitable measuring device.

5, is the under part of the sleeve.

Further directions for using the patterns will be given farther below.

In this specification the terms scale bar and scaled bar mean abar orstrip provided with scale marks of inches or other measure used in tailoring. The word screw is used for thumbscrew.

Figure 1, in the drawings represents the pattern for the collar. Fig. 2, is the pattern for the upper part of the sleeve. Fig. 3, is the back form; Fig. 4c, the side back form. Fig. Fig. 6, is the front waist and under-arm pattern, which for better convenience are connected together as shown. Fig. 7, is the pattern for the front gore of the skirt. Fig. 8, is the pattern for the side gore. Fig. 9, is an nlarged sec ional top view of Fig. 6, on the line as, 0;. Figs. 1O, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15, are enlarged detail views of l the thumbscrews indicated only by black dots in all the other views of the patterns except iu'Fig. 9.

Referring to the drawings by reference numerals, we find in Fig. l, which is the collar pattern, that the same consists of the upper segmental-shaped solid bar 2, adj ustably secured to the segmental-shaped slotted scale bar 3, both of said oars having their outer ends L-shaped or with angular extensions 4, to which are adjus'ably secured the short radial slotted scale bars 5, of which the lower ends are pivoted at 6, to the outer ends of a shorter segmental-shaped solid bar 7, and a segmentabshaped slotted scale bar 8, the innor ends of which are adjustahly secured together, so that in operation the size of the pattern may be adjusted both horizontally and vertically.

The upper section of the sleeve pattern,

which is illustrated in Fig. 2, consists of the outline bar 10, having three rigid and substantially parallel arms 11, 12, 13, to which are adj ustably secured the extensible slotted scale bars 14, 15, and 16; 17, and 18, are two solid bars pivoted together and to the bar15, by a pivot 19, and t0 the bars 11, and 16, by the pivots 20, and 21. To the lower ends of the longitudinal bars 18, and 10, are adjustably secured the slottedscale bars 22, 23, to the lower ends ofwhich are pivoted the outerends of a transverse wristbar consisting of the solid section 24,:and the slotted and scaledsection 25, adj ustably secured'together; It'furtlier' con sists of the longitudinal slotted scale bars 26, 27, adjustably secured at 28, 29, to the solid bars 10, and 17. and having their upper ends adj ustably secured to the slotted and sealed 1 transverse bars 30, and '48, by the thumbscrews vided with a pivot or peg 39, guiding in the slot'40, of the bar 34. The two curvedahd slotted bars 41, 42, the long scale bar 30, and the slotted scale bar43, constitute anattaehmerit tothis pattern section and is used for th'elaying ou't'of high shouldered sleeves and is accordingly termed the high-sleeve attach: ment; the three bars 41, 42, 43 are 'pivot'ally se'euredtogether at44, andfar'e adj ustably seou'r dto the long transverse b'ar'30,b'y the screws 45, 46, 47, respectively. If high sleeves a're out'of style for alongertime thisattachnientimay be removed from the pattern in which ease a shorter'transverse'bar'48, (partly shown')'takes' the" place of the long bar 30, whi'ch',tog'ether with bars 41, 42, 43, are detastes and removed.

'Ihe'co'n'stru'ction of the under section of the sleev'e patte'rn shown in Fig. 5,'-is the same as"tht'ttofi the upper section ju'st'described, ex'eept-thata, this'under side seetion'the up per eii'd's'of' the bars'26, 27, are p'ivotallysecured to the outer ends of a curved lowerarmholegage or bar, consisting of the solid sectio'n49, and a slott'ed'and scaled section 50, adj'ustably secured together by these-Pew" 51 Before describing further the patterns we will now explain the thumbscrew and bar in Fig 10, to' 15', inclusive, in which 75, is the thiirnbscrew. In Fig. 10, this screw is passed tli'rough'the slotted strip 76; and screw-thread ea into the solid strip 77., The screw has a shoulder 7 8, wide" enough to aotas a washer upfon theslot in the strip' 76, for holdingsaid strip firmlyinto frictional contact with the solid' strip 77 th'isshoulder 7 8,'fu rther serves tdkeep thehead of the screw slightly awayfr'or'ii th'estrips so that it may be more readily taken hold of in turning it. U

Fig. 1 ,1 pla V e of J i h th solid strip 7 7, nearest to the head of the screw andithe' slotted strip 7 6, placed underneath or nearest-t0 thepoint of the screw. p

Fig."1'5,' is asi'de view of Fig. 14. Whereit i's neciessary or p e able to place the str ps in, the position Figs. 14', and 15, we use a nut 7 9 rito which the end 80, of the screw 75,1's s vt-thtetftaea'. Fig. 11, is the blank from eh said washer is formed into the shape sliowtiin the plan view Fig 12, and the diam tri'cal sectional side view m Fig. 13. 81,'1s th "screw-threaded hole, and 82, are the lugs or lips projecting into the slot'o fthe strip 7 6,

to p1'event"the"'wasl1er from turning: The purpose of having these two styles of joints is mainly to be able to turn the heads of the screws in opposite directions where two joints come in close contact with or even have to v passov er each otheras in Fig. 9, may be'found necessary. It also facilitates the making of the scale bars without a slot in them, the scale being 'ouithe'solid strips and the measure indicated by the end of the slotted bar or strip.

Referring to Fig. 6, which is the pattern section for drafting the front of the upper garment or waist, the longitudinal outline bar for laying out the'front center line of the garment consists of the twelve inch long solid bar 83, with aflslottedseale'ba'r' 84,fad justablyf secure-ate it's'ilppe'r end by the'screw 85. The'num'ber on'fth'e scale sg that eem s to the upper e'rid'of the twelve-intestate 83, is added to the twelve inches aridthe sum is the height of the frdnt'of thegar ment. The upper end-of the barsthas a rigidicur'vedslotted and'scaled eiitensibn to which is adj ustably seen red by thescrew 87, the solid curved section 88; to the upper end ofv which is a'dj'u'stably secured" by't'he screw 89, thecur'ved"and'slotted sealehar 90, whi'ch,'to'gether with 'th'e section 88, ahd arm 86, forms" an adjustable'side offneckpattrn'; This fron'tofg waist" pattern further onsists of the 'solidlbn'gitndih al's'id e seam-bar 9 2,31111' the slottedsoa'le bars 95, and 94, adju'stabl'y' securedto its'lower and upper endsrspet- Rigidly secured at the upper end" of the scale bar 94,is'atriangularly shaped p'latel30, of which the rear edge hasa'curve-2'O1,-serving as an' under-arm gage. In" the upper corner of the plate is a" slot 99; of armhole gage; it is scaled and provided with a slot 98 throughwhichand through the slot 99, in the p1ate1'3u,'isplaced" an'ad'justrne'nt screw 202, making the bar 96, a'idjustable,"both' horizontally andvertically. The longitud'inallyadj u'stable front "and side bars thus desoribed'ar'e connected together by the solid transverse bars 100, 101, 102, (thela't'ter be i'ng formed of the plate 130,) 103,-104; which have their outer ends secured toone" of the longitudinal bars and their inner ends adjusta'bly secured by thumbsc'rews203', to the inner ends of slotted and scaled bars orextensionsjl05, 1'06," 107,- 10s; and" 109, of which the outer ends are secured to'the opposite longitudinal bar. The upper eressbars 1'00, I05,are slightly curved and serve to g ivethe length of the shoulder seam; The cross bars 101, 106, give the measure across the chest; the bars 102, 107, give the' bust measure; the bars 103'; 108, the waist size, and the bottom bars 104', 109,'are for the hip measure. To this pattern is further a'djustably attached the adjustable darts 110, 111. In Fig's'e'; and 9, it will be seen that the dart e 110, is se cured upon the slotted scale arm 112; which is riveted at 113, to the front outline bar 83.

96,- is the front The other dart gage 111, is fastened upon the dart gages consists of two curved and slotted scale bars 123; the two solid bars 117, and

, 118, pivoted together at 119, and havingtheir lower ends adj ustably secured to the bars 123, and the bottom bars 120, and 121, pivoted together at 122, and having their upper ends adj ustably secured to the bars 123. By means of the slots in the scale bars 123, and thumbscrews 124, both the upper and lower ends of the darts are adjustable up and down. width and the location of the darts are also adjustable by means of the slots 205, in the arms 112, and 115, and the thumbscrews 204, passed therethrough and through the slots 126, in the bars 123. a The dart or breast piece 127, which is provided near its middle with longitudinal graduation marks is secured to the end of the slotted scale bar 107, and is adjustable both horizontally and vertically by means of the screw 128, in the slot 129, of

the bar 34, and the slot of the bar 107. The useof the plate 127, and the triangular plate 130, is so obvious to dressmakers that no further explanation is needed. By a thumbscrew 131, is attachedand adj ustably secured to this pattern the under arrn pattern consisting of the solid longitudinal outline bars 134,

135,t0 the upper endsot which are adjustably secured by thumhscrews 207, the scale bars 139, 140, and to the lower end of the bar 134, is adjnstably secured the curved and slotted scale bar 138. The said longi tndinal bars are connected together by the transverse bottom or hip bar 132, and the waist bar section 136, secured with their outer ends to one of the longitudinal bars and having their inner ends provided with the adjustable slotted scale bars 137, 141,0f which the outer ends are secured to the opposite longitudinal bars in such a manner that the section 141 forms a transverse rigid arm of the bar 134, while the section 137 may preferably be pivoted to the bar 135. To the up-, per end of the bar 140, is pivoted at 208, a curved under-arm gage bar 142, which is provided with a scale, and with a slot 144, by which itis adj ustablysecured upont-he thumbscrew 145, in the upper end of the bar 139.

Fig. 3, or the back pat-tern, consists of a triangular plate 146, having the slotted scale arm 147, with an adjustable extension 148, to which is pivoted at 209, the curved and'slotted scale bar 149, in the slot of which a thumbscrew 150, holds adjustably the solid bar 151, to the lower end of which is adj ustably secured the extension scale bar 152, the lower end of which is again adj ustably secured to theslotted scale bar 153, which is a rigid extension of the longitudinal bar 158. To the arm 154, of the plate 146, is adjnstably secured at 210, a slotted scale bar 155, of which the outer end is secured tothe upper end of the bar 158. To the lower end of the latter is adjustably secured the partlyslotted and The scaled bar 159, which extends to the bottom end of the pattern and, together with the bar 158, forms a single segmental curve. To the lower arm 156, of the plate 146, is adj ustably secured the upper end of the bar 157, which extends to the bottom end of the patternand is connected to the bottom end of the bar 159, by a segmental-shaped transverse bar consisting of a slotted scale bar 162, and a solid bar 161, are adj ustably secured together and having their outer ends pivoted to the lower ends of the said bars 157, 159. The bar 157, is provided with a vertical slotted and scaled arm 160, to which the bar 159, is adjustably se- It is also provided" cured at 214, to the bar 168, and having a lower solid extension 166; the slotted scale bar 164, is adjustably secured at 215, to the bar 169, and extending upward. These longitudi nal bars are connected at their lower ends by the transverse bar consisting of the solidsection 171, and the slotted scale bar 167, which are adjustably secured together at 216,,and have their outer ends secured to the lower ends of the bars 169, and 166. The side bars are further connected by a slotted scale bar 170, which is pivoted at 217, to the bar 169, and has its slot 218, embracing an adj ustment screw 219, in the bars 165, 166; to the. upper end of the bar 164, is further pivoted at 220, the segmental-shaped scale bar 163, having a slot 221, engaging an adjustment screw 222, in the upper end of the bar 168.

The small and large skirt patterns Figs. 7, and 8, are so nearly alike of construction that we will use only one description for the two. Each of said patterns consistsof asolid outlinebar 172,'from which extend vertically three, substantially parallel arms 173, 174,175,having adj ustably secured slotted and scaled extensions 179, 180, 181, secured with their outer ends to another longitudinal outline bar 178. 177, is a graduated hipdart gage adj ustably secured by the screw 176, to the upperbar 175, which for that purpose is provided with a slot 223, registering with the slot 224,intl1c scaled bar 181, so that the same screw may secure the dart gage and the two bars 175, and 181, together by passing through the two and engaging a not on the rear side of bar 181.

The patterns are adj listed as follows: If the neck measure of aperson is fourteen inches, the longitudinal bars 2, 3, 7, 8, in Fig. 1, of the patterns are adjusted to 14, and the height of the collar pattern is adjusted to suit the taste or style. The scale 106, in Fig. 6, is adj usted to the number corresponding to the number of inches the person measures across the chest. Scale 107, is adjusted to the number of inches the person measures across the bust directly below the arms. Scale 155, in Fig. 3, is set to the number of inches across vthe back between the shoulders. iinej, -or- .other measuring device shows 1 that from neck-1o obust down the front is (five inches, then the scale 84, ingFig. 6, should be so adjusted on: the scale 107, that the number 5, .ofsealeSet, touches the sideof scale 107. If

a item: theneck-to .waist shows t-wel re inches adjust {lower end-of scale 84,,to 12, ion scale'83. Theseales 94, 139, and 14:0, inl ig. 6,,.areadjusted t0 the number-of inches obtained by the tapeifrom under thejarm to-the waist.

. Again, if the tape line shows ten inches from elbo vtoywnist then the scale 23, in h ig.-2, is

aneasune from thesbustzmeasure. If .thediiier- ,enee hefomiznstaince ten, then the dartsare gadju sted zto ;l'th-e; nuin beriteu ,upon thescales 1 1-2,

and-1L5, in -Rig. Next, adjust. the lengthiof 'frghej-ida-rts tor-the numberobtained byirneass uring. above; the. waist Linea, no. In making the pattennsthe scale 112, is rproeidediwithea-j mark 51' or setti-ng, the adjacent sides iQf, the we -.d. antsfby,.-,SQ -&S'10 have them in acertainf place fonmediemu-measurements. wTheFrench :darh250is. obtained by adjustingthelparts 92, 95,134,,ar1d 138, io-thesamefigures thaagave theilen-gthiof thedarts 110,andlll. The-thou t; of skirt pattenn Fig. 7,is-adjustedas followsz' Tshe s ale 18]., zisadjusted to the same f gure: asthe-waist measurement. The scales 180, and 31 79, ,are r both (set? :byvthe hip measurement. This-done the lengthof skirt is taken with :tapelline in f rontandslantin g: seam. The slanting seam is obtain ed by laying astraight edge even tot-hessideiof the piece that joins the-Crossbars 17;9,;and 180, together, and bysubtracting thewaist measure from; the hip measure the .number is obtained that isthey sizeqofi the dart in the skirt. Thesidegore: or large skirt pattern Fig. -8, is adjusted in thesametmanner as already described :for

Fig; 7. ;In-zFig. :6,,the.scales 94:, l39,and 140, are alike. All other-matters in this patent systemare :soqobvious to persons skilled in the tart-of using garmentpatterns that further detailsof directionufor use laremconsidered superfl nous. =,-From, theabove description it-willbeseen thamwe-produce an entire system of slotted andsolid --metallic strips .or bars connected intosections for thevarious-partsof a gar wayfor themarking or cutting tool as is one "ofthe troubles-withthe metallicgarrnent-patternsheretofore used.

We are aware thatprior to our invention garment patterns have been made with ad- I the tape .ins a l strips or plat co bine int sec- ,tions, 7 so we. do: not ;c1aim such cornbination broadly, but,

What wedoclairn, and desire ,tOSQGHLe'by Letters Patent, ,is-

l. Thepattern system consistingof a series .of slottedand solid curved and -.st,raightmetallic bars adj ustably-secured together in sections by thumbscrews. passed through holes in the solid bars and beingscrewrthreaded into nuts havingprojections guidingand slid in g in the slots of the slotted halts, rsu-bstantially as and for the;purpose-specified.

- 2. In a-gamnent pattern athecombinationof the slotted and solid bars, adj ustable-mpon each other; the slotted bars being provided with nuts having projections"engaging the slot to keep the 5111111 from .turningnthe, solid bars mavin g 1' holes and shouldered 1 th umbscrews passing therethnough and en-gaging the nuts in the slotted-bars, substantiallyqas shown and described and f0! thepupposeset forth.

,3. I-n apattern 012 the upper ,side of; the sleeve, the combination of; the @bar 10., having threerigid and substantially .paralleLa-nms-as 11, 12,1and l8, towhichare adjustablysecnred extensible bars :as 14, 15, and; 16 the bars, 17,

e and l. 8, piv.oted-Ltogethenand to the rearends "of bars 14, 15, -an,d:16;' theslotted-scalebars 23 and 26,-,adjustably secured .to bars 17,;and

' 18; the slotted longitudinal bars=27, an:d;22, adjustably secured to bar 10; the transverse 1 @wrist ibarconsisting of; the; sol-id section '24, and theslotted section25, adjustabiysecured together and having-13h eir outer-ends pivoted to bars 22, and 23; the bar 4:8,adjustablysecuredto the upper ends of bars 26, and 27;

and thesegmentahshaped shoulder-bar con- ,sistingrof thesections ,33,'and 3 8,- -piv,ot ed to the (top ends of bars 26, and x27, and 1 the .42, pivoted together, at 4:4, and havingztheir lower ends adj ustablyrseeured to; the barfi30, substantially as and for the purposetset'zforth. 5. In "a pattern for the under sideof a sleeve,- thecombinat-ionof the bar 10,.having three rigid and substantiallywpara'llelarmsas.

11, 12,and 13,,to-whichareadjustably secured extensible :barsasl t, 15, and l6; theibars 17, and 18, pivoted together and-to the reanends ofbars 14, 15, and 16; the slotted longitudinal bars ,26, and 23, adjustablysecured to bars 17, and 18; the slotted longitudinal bars .27, and 22, ,adjustablysecured-to bar lOythe transverse wrist bar consisting; of the solid section 24, and the slotted section 25,:adjustably secured together and having their outer endspivotedtobars22, and 23; the curved-bar sections 49, and 5.0, adjustably securedtogether and having their outer ends pivotally 1 per end with the plate 130, having the slot 99, and the curve 201; the bar 96, vertically and horizontally adjustable on the plate 130; the curved transverse shoulder bar consisting of the sections 100, and 105, adjustably secured together and having their outer ends secured to the upper ends of the bars 90, and 96 the transverse breast bar consisting of the sections 101, and: 106, adjustably secured together and having their outer ends secured to the bars 96, and 84; the bar 107, adjnstably secured to the plate 130, and to the bar 84; the transverse bar consisting 06 the sections 103, and 10S, adj ustably secured together and having their outer ends secured to the bars 83, and 92; the transverse hip bar consisting of the sections 104, and 109, adj nstably secured together and having their outer ends secured to the lower ends of the bars 83, and 95,substantiallyasshown and described.

7. In a front of waist pattern the combination of the plate 130, the slotted bust bar 107, adj ustably secured to said plate 5 the scale bar 84, having the slot 129, crossing the slot in a the bar 107, the shouldered thumb-screw 128,

. passed through the siots of the said crossing bars 84, and 107, andbein g provided at its end with ascrew-thrcaded nut between which and the shoulder of the screw the bars may be clamped together; the breast plate 127, having the longitudinal graduation marks shown, and being secured at the front end of the bar 107, is adjustable bot-h longitudinally and vertically by means of the screw 128,and the crossing slotted bars 84 and 107, substantially as set forth.

8. In a front of waist pattern, the combination of the longitudinal bar 83, having the .rigid slotted and scaled transverse'arms 112,

and the dart gages 110, and 111, adj ustably secured one upon each of said arms, and consisting of the slotted scale bars 123, the solid top bars 117, and 118, pivotally secured together at their upper ends, and having their lower ends adj ustably secured to the bars 123; thelower solid bars 120, and 121, pivoted together at their lower ends, and having their upper ends adjustably secured to the bars 123, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

9. The combination with the herein de' scribed front of waist pattern section having the arm-hole gage 201, the bars 94, 92, and 95, of the under-arm pattern section consisting of the longitudinal bar 134,-adjustably secured to the curved scale bar 138, the lower end of which is secured tothe lower end 0t bar 95, the bar-139, adjustably secured to the upper end of bar 134, and having the thumbscrew g the longitudinal bar 135, ad ustably securedto the scale bar 140, having pivorallyv secured to its upper end the curved and'slotted scale bar 142, adjustably secured to the upper end of the bar 139; the transversebar consisting of the sections 136, and 141, adjustably secured together and having their outer ends secured to the bars 135, and 134, and the transverse bar consisting of the sections 132,- and 137, adjustably secured together and, having their outer ends secured to thebars 135, and- 138, as shown and described. 1 1

, 10. The back body pattern consisting of the plate 146, having the three arms 154, 156,and 147; the extension 148, adjustably secured'to the arm 147, and having pivotally'securedto its upper-end the curved and slotted; scale bar 149; the bar 157, adjustably secured to the arm. 156, and having the lateral scaled extensions 212, 213, and the transverse arm the segmental-shaped longitudinal bar, adj ustably secured to said arm 160, and consisting of the sections 158, and 159, ad ustably secured together and having their lower ends connected to the lower ends of bar 157,113 a segmental shaped transverse bar co nsisting otthe sections 161, and 162, adjustably ,secured together and having their outer ends pivotally secured to the bars 157 and 159, the transverse bar 155, pivotally secured to bar 158, and .adjustably secured to the arm 154, of the plate 146; said bar 158, having the rigid extension 153, provided with a slotand with slanting scale marks; the oblique bar consisting of the sections 152, and 151, adjustably secured together and having their outer ends adj ustably secured to the arm 153, and to the pivoted curved bar 149, substan tially as shown and described.

11; In a side gore pattern the combination of the longitudinal segmentahshaped bar consisting of the solid section 169, and the slotted and scaled section 164, adj ustably secured together; the straight longitudinal bar 166, having a curved and scaled extension 165, adjustably secured to the curved section 168; the segmental-shaped arm 163,-pivoted tothe bar 164, and being adjustably secured to the 3, adj ustably secured togetherand having the outer L-shaped ends 4; the smaller segmental-shaped bar consisting of the sections 7, 

